Daawats (feasts), not only for the loved ones, but for anyone who wants to be a part of the celebration, is what marks the festival of Eid al-Adha. As the young and dazzle in new clothes, and exchange greetings and presents, one thing that remains a constant in almost all households is their longing to feast on freshly prepared, aromatic biryani, the dish that is almost synonymous with this festival.Delhi, given its rich cultural heritage, has many popular biryani spots around the city, which have been serving this dish since generations. Some of these are eateries that were set-up in the last century, and passed on the art of making flavourful biryani to generations down the line. For these families, who cook and serve biryani to satiate the cravings of foodies across NCR, it’s the love of being part of someone else’s celebration that runs in the blood. Behind the giant degchis (handi; utensil in which biryani is prepared), are these faces that have been hosting their patrons with delectable treat, and aim to continue doing so.
Four generations, and counting
The famed Chicken Biryani of Hussaini Hotel can be found in Nizamuddin’s packed streets, which lead to the Nizamuddin Aulia Dargah. Standing tall since 1952, “this is one of the first restaurants of Nizamuddin”. “Humare grandfather, Hussaini ji ne ise 70 saal pehle shuru kara tha,” informs Mohd Makki Hussain, who is the second eldest among the four grandsons. He adds, “Main aur mere bade bhai yahan bachpan se baith rahe hain. Pehle hum apne father ke saath baitha karte the, lekin ab kayi saalon se hum akele hi sambhaal rahe hainThe eldest brother, Mohd Talib Hussain, shares, “Now the fourth generation is also getting involved. Humara bhateeja do saal ka hai aur woh bhi yahan pe aakar bahut khush hota hai,” he says cheerfully, adding, “Eid ke time par hum restaurant band rakhte hain taaki family ke saath Eid achhe se mana sakein, par Eid ke pehle aur baad, hum khushi se logon ko biryani bana kar khailate hain. Khoob order aate hain.”